VERY SHERI: Ice, Ice, Ice, Baby! The Three Faces of Ice Treats
Since most of my writing is focused on leadership, I thought it would be a fun (and tasty) diversion to explore the attributes of the three leaders of the flavored ice business, namely: shave ice, shaved ice, and snow cones. As a resident Midwesterner with Southern roots and frequent travel ties to Hawaii, I’ve often wondered about the differences and similarities between the flavored ice varieties.
Shave ice, the tasty treat enjoyed by Hawaiian natives and tourists, has its roots in Kakigon, a Japanese desert that dates back to the Heian Period (794 to 1198).
When Japanese plantation workers immigrated to the Hawaiian islands, their favorite sweet dessert came with them. It is said that the Japanese would use their family swords, those handed down from generation to generation, to create shave ice from large, frozen blocks.
Having spent time on both the mainland and the Hawaii islands, I’ve always been perplexed by the difference between shave and shaved ice. On Hawaii, there is never a “d“: it’s always shave, never shaved. On the mainland, it’s always shaved ice. But why? Is it merely grammatical, or is there a difference in the dessert?
Most islanders I’ve asked have agreed that the d is omitted because the Hawaiian language doesn’t have a past tense. Although there’s no formal documentation to back up that claim, who am I to question the opinion of native Hawaiians?
Having sampled my fair share of these refreshing treats, I’ve noticed that the Hawaiian version (the shave) seems more fluffy than the mainland variety (the shaved), but it’s impossible to do a side-by-side comparison, for obvious reasons!
The biggest difference between the two similarly-named desserts is probably the way it is served. In Hawaii, most shave ice vendors offer a scoop of vanilla ice cream at the bottom of the cup. This option seems uniquely Hawaiian, as I’ve never been offered ice cream with my shaved ice on the mainland.
The snow cone, however, is quite a different treat altogether. Sure, it’s made with the same main ingredient–ice, but while shave(d) ice melts in your mouth, snow cones must be chewed. The snow cone is more commonly found on the mainland, and features a ground, more dense form of ice. The ice is crushed rather than shaved.
The snow cone was first produced by Samuel Bert at the Texas State Fair in 1919. Bert’s contraption crushed the ice in small chunks. When the syrupy flavor was poured over the ice, it cooled the flavoring, but most of it gathered at the bottom of the cup. To this day, snow cones are chunky and harder than their shaved-ice counterparts.
As for shaved ice, Ernest Hansen of New Orleans developed the first block-style shaving machine in the 1930’s. The result was a flakier, smoother concoction similar to the texture of snowflakes. The shave technique found in Hawaii, born from Hansen’s New Orleans design, seems to hold the flavor better than the chunkier ice of a snow cone.
The flavoring tends to cling to the shave(d) ice better, causing the sweet stuff to permeate throughout the treat for a more lasting and consistent taste. With snow cones, the syrups don’t seem to grab onto the crushed ice as readily. Much of the flavoring slides off the ice and collects towards the bottom of the cone.
I was recently at a yogurt shop in Palm Springs where a sign read, “shaved ice.” My children pointed and chuckled, having been well-schooled in the Hawaiian way. The cashier immediately explained, “We know we spelled it wrong. It should be shave ice.”
But it’s not really the spelling that makes the treat, it’s the technique. If it’s truly shave ice, it’s a completely different experience from eating a snow cone, and it can even be quite unlike a shaved ice. If a vendor don’t know which of the three he’s selling, the product probably isn’t that great. Successful leaders, in any business, should know the business they are in!
On the mainland, you can get a snow cone at the amusement park or carnival, from your neighborhood ice cream truck, or even in the frozen section of your local grocer. Many ice cream shops or specialty vendors, like Tropical Sno, offer shaved ice treats. But in Hawaii, shave ice is a staple snack. Everywhere you turn, there’s a shave ice truck, snack shop, or store offering the cold treat.
When on Oahu, my favorite places for shave ice are:
Ailana Shave Ice – This Waikiki shop uses homemade syrups that actually come from the fruit, and offers a variety of unique combinations.
Magoo’s Burgers– The yellow truck parked at Diamond Head State Monument offers a variety of shave ice flavors, and is a refreshing reward after hiking up the crater.
Island Snow– Located in the beautiful beach town of Kailua, the shave ice here has been called the best on Oahu. It is also where President Obama famously treated his family to the Hawaiian snack.
Matsumoto Shave Ice – Found on the historic North Shore of Oahu, it is one of the oldest and most famous shave ice locations.
No matter how you slice it (shave it, chop it, or crush it!), flavored ice treats are a refreshing, tasty snack enjoyed by mainlanders and Hawaiians alike. And although all the varieties are delicious in their own right, not all ice treats are created equal. I’m sure you have your favorite type and flavor. I know I have mine!
–Sheri Staak